Pin weaving is the technique of using strips of fabric to
create a new piece of fabric. You can weave any shape you like, and not have any waste, or you
can weave a rectangle and then cut it up into pieces, just like any other fabric.
There are lots of ways to make strips for pin weaving, but I think that you can group them into 3 basic
techniques: (1) tubes, (2) bias strips, and (3) simple fabric strips. Once you have experimented
with these, you may want to use your imagination to come up with new ways to weave, or new
combinations of these three.
TUBES
To weave with tubes, you will first cut strips equal to twice
your desired pattern width, plus 1/2 inch. In other words, suppose you want to weave with
strips one inch wide. You cut your fabric into 2-1/2" strips, fold the strips right sides
together, stitch along the cut edge, using a 1/4" seam, and then turn and press your tubes.
The easiest way to turn your tubes is to use the fasturn
tool. Then you just weave the tubes together.
"BIAS" STRIPS
Bias strips are called that because the fabric is cut
diagonally--on the bias--before the sides are turned under. This creates a stretchy strip which
is very handy for sewing edging to curved items like potholders, but it isn't at all helpful when
you're weaving. So, although we usually call them bias strips because we create them with bias
strip makers, it's really much better NOT to cut your fabric on the bias. In fact, you shouldn't
even cut it across the grain, which is still somewhat stretchy. Whenever possible, cut your
fabrics parallel to the selvedge edge. So for 18" strips, you'd need a half-yard of fabric. If
you're doing a project that only requires one or two strips, and you don't think you'd want to
use the rest of a half-yard of fabric, then by all means buy just a small piece and cut crosswise.
It'll just be a little trickier making your bias strips.
RAW-EDGED FABRIC STRIPS
The simplest method of all, but also the least tailored-looking,
is to just cut strips from fabric and use as-is. So if you want to weave one inch stripes, you
cut one inch strips. It's just that simple!
The disadvantage of this method is that the edges of the strips will fray. However, I prefer
to say that they "bloom." People have paid lots of good money to make "blooming" sweatshirts and
jackets, so I say, let's make a virtue of necessity and admire that fuzzy look we get when our
unfinished strips bloom. It's not a bug, it's a feature!
COLORS
Once you've decided on the shape of your project and the method
of strip-making, you'll want to decide on a color scheme. It can be anything from just two
colors, all the way up to a different color for each strip. You can arrange the colors in a
progression from light to dark, or from red to blue, or you might want to make a plaid. Or
anything else that occurs to you. Or don't plan at all--just stick in each strip as you go
along, putting in whatever looks nice to your eye. There are no rules, just have fun!
HOW TO WEAVE
The basic technique is quite simple. Cut up a large box, or buy a piece of styrofoam large
enough to make the piece of fabric you desire. Often our first pin-weaving project is a vest, so
after you have selected your cardboard or styrofoam, you simply trace your vest front piece onto it.
I like to make it about 1 inch wider all around, for safety's sake.
Basket Weave
Start pinning strips in one direction, laying them all parallel to each other. You
can leave space between them if you wish to attach your weaving to a background fabric, or
if you want an open lacy effect. If not,
place them tightly one beside the other. Place a pin at the top and one at the bottom, each
angled slightly outward, to hold the strip taut.
Now, start pinning the strips in the other direction. You may have to unpin one end of
the bottom strip to get the top strip under it, then pin back in place to keep the strips taut
and straight. It's a little less confusing to start
in the middle than at the top or bottom, if you're doing an odd-shaped piece like a vest pattern.
Basket weave, the simplest pattern, is when each strip goes over one strip, under the next, over the next,
and so on. Then for the next strip, you do the opposite, and go under the strip you just went over,
then under the next, then over, and so on.
Twill
The next simplest is the twill. Tip: If the fabrics for the horizontal and vertical strips are
going to be different, choose the prettiest or most interesting fabrics for the horizontals,
because they're going to be a bit more visible. Lay out all your vertical strips, as above.
Now, starting at the top, lay a horizontal strip across 2 verticals, then go under 1, then over
2, then under 1, until you're all the way across. Take the next horizontal, go under 1, then
across 2, then under 1, across 2, etc. The third strip goes across 1, then under 1, then across
2, under 1 for the rest of the way across. Repeat rows 1 through 3 all the way down. You
should see a pattern of double-width strips moving diagonally down the piece.
There are lots more variations, so if you want to do something really fancy, try finding a
weaving book. Any pattern that can be used for weaving threads, can be used for weaving strips.
Or just try creating your own weave. Enjoy yourself!
Using your new woven fabric
If you've made your fabric in the shape of a pattern
pieces, then you should stitch all around the edge to keep it stable. If you've made an
open weave, you may want to secure it at all the intersections, either with stitching or
with little pieces of Wonder-Under or Steam-A-Seam, or try using fabric glue. If you're
creating a piece of fabric to cut up, then it should be woven fairly tightly, then pressed
to help set the pieces together. Handle gently.
Pin Weaving Lesson